photo taken from the webit is pretty straight foward to strip the fork, job will be easier if you got a air wrench.
This cartridge fork is similar to many other bike with USD fork, like the YZ125, DT200WR, this fork is easier to work with as compare to the Showa twin chambers fork, which it’s slightly more complicated, but still, no rocket science, for a start, we will kick off with this KYB cartridge fork.
with the fork out of triple clamp, before you start any work, back out all compression and rebound clicker, count them and make a note.
1. loosen fork cap, loosen the jam nut and fork cap can be taken out, and you can remove at this juncture (the cap), and collapse the fork tube
(with the fork collapse, there’s a rebound rod in there, remove that out and keep somewhere safe as it is soft)
2. pour out all the fork oil into a container, you may want to pump the rod to help to remove the fluid faster
3. with the air wrench, and correct size allen (a quality type), spin out the base valve out from under the fork leg, base valve should spin out relatively easy
4. with the base valve out, the entire cartridge can be pull out of the fork tube
5. now, you can start to split the fork tube
6. pry open the duct cover with a large screw driver
7. use a small screw driver to remove the clip inside
8. with the clip remove, hold the fork tube, 1 hand on the chrome part, 1 hand on the other fork tube, with a swift jerk action, pull apart the fork tube
9. from here, you can seethe seal, 2nos teflon coated bushing, remove them
10. with the correct order, slip the duct cover down the chrome tube, follow by clip, seal (before it can cut the seal), the outer bushing, and lastly the inner bushing
11. slip the chrome tube into the other fork leg, let the inner bushing in and then the outer bushing, use a fork seal rammer to knock it lightly into the fork tube, it should seat it easily
12. now, use the fork seal rammer and seat the seal in snugly (not to much strength), just make sure it seat down squarely
13. put back the clip, and duct cover (you can use the seal rammer)
14. now you are done, with seal replacement
15. collaspe the fork tube, make sure the fork tube are sliding in and out effortlessly
16. then slid back in the cartridge, and use ya hand to screw back the base valve slowly, when it is hadn tight, use the air wrench to tighten it, and then a torque wrench to it suggested torque number
17. now, pour in ya favourite fork oil and bleed it properly (this is important)
(replace the rebound rod after it is bleeded)
18. with the correct oil height, slip in the fork spring and install the fork cap (remember to secure the jam nut against the fork cap)
19. set all clickers back to original setting and you are ready to go.
hope this helps.
(with the fork collapse, there’s a rebound rod in there, remove that out and keep somewhere safe as it is soft)
2. pour out all the fork oil into a container, you may want to pump the rod to help to remove the fluid faster
3. with the air wrench, and correct size allen (a quality type), spin out the base valve out from under the fork leg, base valve should spin out relatively easy
4. with the base valve out, the entire cartridge can be pull out of the fork tube
5. now, you can start to split the fork tube
6. pry open the duct cover with a large screw driver
7. use a small screw driver to remove the clip inside
8. with the clip remove, hold the fork tube, 1 hand on the chrome part, 1 hand on the other fork tube, with a swift jerk action, pull apart the fork tube
9. from here, you can seethe seal, 2nos teflon coated bushing, remove them
10. with the correct order, slip the duct cover down the chrome tube, follow by clip, seal (before it can cut the seal), the outer bushing, and lastly the inner bushing
11. slip the chrome tube into the other fork leg, let the inner bushing in and then the outer bushing, use a fork seal rammer to knock it lightly into the fork tube, it should seat it easily
12. now, use the fork seal rammer and seat the seal in snugly (not to much strength), just make sure it seat down squarely
13. put back the clip, and duct cover (you can use the seal rammer)
14. now you are done, with seal replacement
15. collaspe the fork tube, make sure the fork tube are sliding in and out effortlessly
16. then slid back in the cartridge, and use ya hand to screw back the base valve slowly, when it is hadn tight, use the air wrench to tighten it, and then a torque wrench to it suggested torque number
17. now, pour in ya favourite fork oil and bleed it properly (this is important)
(replace the rebound rod after it is bleeded)
18. with the correct oil height, slip in the fork spring and install the fork cap (remember to secure the jam nut against the fork cap)
19. set all clickers back to original setting and you are ready to go.
hope this helps.
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